An excerpt from: Writers, Bourbon, Beer, and Barbecue
By G. Morgan Kelly
Copyright © 2002 G. Morgan Kelly
A marinade is a seasoned liquid that contains a tenderizing acidic ingredient
such as vinegar, wine, soy sauce, or citrus juice. Marinade seasonings
can be a combination of herbs, spices, and even vegetables, but they generally
reflect the tastes of the region in which they were made. Regardless of
the ingredient combination, all marinades are used by soaking meat in
them to add flavor and to tenderize before cooking. Always follow the
directions carefully since some foods, especially fish and shrimp, can
become mushy if left in too long. Always be sure to marinate in a non-reactive
pan or a plastic bag.
There
are regional differences and preferences regarding types of sauces and
sauce bases. Southern sauces are typically vinegar and pepper-based, while
South Carolinians prefer mustard. In the Midwest and Texas as well as
farther west, the sauces are most often tomato-based and spicy. In the
far West, fresh herbs and citrus fruits are used.
Additionally,
there are Asian barbecue sauces, and some that use alcohol like Jim Beam
bourbon or Zinfandel wine for flavoring. Specialty sauces include one
designed specifically for game, and another white barbecue sauce for fish
and poultry. The chilies in some of these sauces vary from mild jalapeños
to fiery habaneros and African bird peppers. The tomato and ketchup-based
types still outsell all others.
One thing almost all these sauces have in common is a sweetener, which
can be sugar (white or brown,) honey, molasses, or even maple syrup. Because
sugars tend to burn easily, sauces should only be used during the last
hour of cooking. This is especially true with tomato-based sauces, which
will blacken long before the meat is done.
All
of these sauces provide an easy way to prepare tasty dishes in a relatively
short period of time. While it's difficult to find the time to prepare
and simmer your own sauces these days, you can quickly turn a commercial
product into your own signature sauce by adding ingredients such as chilies,
hot pepper sauces, ginger, or even fruits.
Having
enjoyed more than my share of Western Kentucky Style Barbecue with its
unique hot sauce, and having made a version of Kentucky Burgoo, I was
keenly interested in sampling various offerings from the show. I’ve
traveled to New Orleans and other parts of Louisiana, so I’m somewhat
familiar with the cayenne based pepper sauces. Over the years I’ve
even perfected a few sauces famous in the French Quarter of the city,
enjoying the flavors of Creole cookery.
Thinking
I knew something about hot foods, I wandered about the exhibits, sampling
the salsa, chilies and hot sauces. I was unprepared for some of the habanero
pepper sauces encountered at the show, from Ass Whoopin' Redneck Sauce,
Backdraft, Fire in the Hole, Habanero Hot Sauce From Hell and Habby Habanero's
Firestarter Sauce, to the Mad Dog's Hemorrhoid Helper, Smack My Ass And
Call Me Sally, to The Sauce That Killed Kenny. Seems most of the vendors
have a marketing strategy to make their products stand out. It works,
and can attest to truth in labeling and product descriptions.
Sampling
more habanera sauces than I can remember, I purchased a few bottles of
hot sauces from an interesting fellow from Provincetown, Massachusetts
with a company called Bada Bing Bada Boom (www.badabingbadaboomsauce.com).
His marketing gimmick was interesting to say the least, heavily relying
on Italian “gangster” themes. All I could think of was the
"Bada Bing" Club on the Sopranos. He did have a roasted garlic
and red jalapeno sauce called Mal Occhio that is excellent. I've used
it on lasagna, finding it really suits the flavors, without being overpowering;
yet adding a solid feeling of heat. The haberano pepper sauce named Probable
Cause has a warmth, texture and flavor complimentary to everything I've
tried it on. One of these days, I'll have to attempt to replicate it,
or just order more from him. On a side note, we met the day afterwards
in the Old Town section of the city and shared a few Mexican Beers. I
can't seem to recall his name.
Another
interesting family was a husband and wife team from California. They
operate d'Oni Specialty Sauces in Sherman Oaks, CA (www.d-oni.com).
Janis and David Dalessandro were wonderful, taking the time to explain
their marketing strategy and position in the industry. They concentrate
on lighter more subtle flavored sauces. I favored their Moondance Marinade,
using it on more than a few occasions on fish on the grill. Maybe I
couldn’t get Van Morrison’s song out of my mind, but I always
liked Moondance, so thought I’d try their sauces. A GREAT CHOICE.
Grouper, catfish, orange roughy and bass come out perfect each and
every
time.
Janis
was terrific, taking the time to provide me with a lot of information
and recipes. I particularly savor a recipe of hers for crab cakes with
a roasted bell pepper dipping sauce.
